Named for a city in Jordan, Aqaba looks bland. A large, high-ceilinged space was done up minimally, louvered white window coverings on columns and three plastic cherry blossom profusions adding an organic feel to the space. 

The menu had enough to appeal to both, those who love Middle Eastern food as well as those who are experimenting. Mezze like hummus, babaganoush and tzatziki rubbed shoulders with kisir (a side of bulgur wheat, red onions, peppers, tomatoes and dill mixed with olive oil and lemon juice) and foul madammas (fava beans, garlic, kalamata olives and olive oil). Seeing the variety on offer, we started with a non-veg mezze platter. Though you’re allowed to order six meaty options for the platter, we opted to try three veg and three non-veg.

To go with the bites we ordered a mocktail and cocktail respectively. The Tranquil, an alcohol-free mixture of orange juice, pineapple juice and cinnamon underwhelmed. Our Berry Evocative, a frozen cocktail recommended by the bartender was margarita-like in texture and taste, though cloyingly sweet. Aqaba also had an extensive (and informative) wine list, with bottles going up to R20,000+ clearly looking to bring in the corporate clients who have offices in the building.

Getting back to the mezze, we were delighted by our platter of creamy hummus, too-subtle garlic sauce, zesty tabbouleh, tender shish taouk, dry lamb kibbeh and light, crunchy fried calamari. The portion size was only enough for two to share, so don’t think it can accompany a round of drinks with the work crew, but each dish was distinct and authentic. We especially loved the pickled beets and jalapenos that were served with the meaty dishes.

For mains, we ordered a vegetarian moussaka and chicken tagine – the latter made famous by Moshe’s when it first opened. The menu featured fresh catch of the day that included cray fish and John Dory – both species that aren’t local – but we steered clear of seafood, fresh catch or not. The moussaka, was deliciously smoky and besides aubergines featured spinach, mushroom, peppers and olives in a red sauce. The tagine’s strongest flavour was of preserved lemon, which bathed our tender chunks of chicken and couscous. Satiated, we mopped up what was left of the acidic tagine sauce with an order of too crunchy pita bread topped with zatar and sumac powder.

To end, we tried a flaky yet filling baklava with a thick layer of crunchy nuts and a piece of the apple and cinnamon pie. The baklava was one of the best we’ve tried, with the six pieces disappearing in short order. The pie, which was served with a scoop of ice-cream was dusted with cinnamon and managed to be neither too sweet nor too crusty, making it hard to waste as well.

With so much food consumed, we settled down with a cup of Illy made Americano and the house special – Moroccan mint tea (made with a Twinings green tea bag). The latter was “minty more in aroma than taste,” as per our dining companion, but it could hardly mar the meal that preceded it.

For all day dinners, there’s a menu that features pastas, burgers and pizza, but we’d never sample that after the grub we had. On weekends we foresee Aqaba going housefull, located as it is in an office building with ample parking. Large, spacious and with a long list of cocktails, it should soon find favour with self-proclaimed foodies and party-animals alike.

THE BILL

Aqaba P5 Club House, Peninsula Business Park, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel (). Daily 11.30am-midnight. Alcohol served. All major cards. Meal for two R3,000-6,000.